Across the Kitchen Table:

Scones, Scones, Lovely Scones

Staying Warm with Horseradish

Winter Salads

Leslie Weiner and Barbara Albright, authors of Simply Scones (1988), offer dozens of scone recipes with great variation in sweetness, shape, and method of baking.They also offer some ideas about the origin of the word "scone," which might come from the Dutch schoonbrood (fine, white bread), the Middle Low German schonbrot (fine bread), or the Gaelic sgonn (shapeless mass or large mouthful, descriptive but not too appealing).

Scones are particularly nice in the winter, served in the late afternoon with a cup of tea and traditional Devon cream, or hot from the oven for breakfast. Scones are sturdy enough to travel in a lunchbox. Like their cousins, biscuits and muffins, they taste best the day they are made. The recipes that follow give you the range of sweet and savory scones, but you may well be inspired to try your own variations on the sconic theme.

Simply Scones

Beard on Bread

Cranberry Orange Scones

Preheat oven to 425°F. and grease a cookie sheet. Whisk dry ingredients together in a large mixing bowl. Using a pastry blender or fork, work the butter into the flour mixture until butter is the size of small peas. Make a well and pour in the whipping cream and egg, and mix with a fork to moisten the flour. Stir in the cranberries and orange peel. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured surface and gather it into a ball. Pat the dough into a circle about 3/4" thick. Cut into 8 pieces the way you would cut a pie, or cut out 2" circles using a cookie cutter (reshape and cut out any scraps). Place on cookie sheet and sprinkle lightly with sugar. Bake for about 12 minutes, until golden brown. Makes 8 to 10 scones.

Buttermilk Scones

Rolled Scones
Divide the dough in half and roll each piece into a strip 12" long and 1/2" thick. Brush each strip with melted butter, spread with a thin layer of jam or marmalade, and sprinkle with currants or raisins (if desired). Roll each strip up starting with a long side; pinch the seam closed, and cut each strip into 12 one-inch-wide rollups. Place the rolled scones on an ungreased baking sheet and bake for 10 to 12 minutes, until golden.

3 cups flour
1/3 cup sugar
2-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
12 tablespoons (3/4 cup) butter
1 cup buttermilk
3/4 cup currants, soaked in hot water for 5 minutes and drained
1 tablespoon heavy cream
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon
2 tablespoons sugar

Preheat oven to 425°F. Combine dry ingredients in a mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Cut the butter into the flour mixture with a pastry blender or fingertips until the mixture is crumbly. Add the buttermilk and currants and mix with a fork only until the dry ingredients are moistened. Gather the dough into a ball and press it until it holds together. Pat into 1 large or 2 smaller circles. Combine the heavy cream, cinnamon, and sugar, and brush the mixture over the dough. Cut the dough into 18 pie-shaped pieces and place them on the baking sheet. Bake for about 12 minutes, until golden.

Girdle Scones

Sift the flour, cream of tartar, salt, sugar, and baking soda together. Combine it with enough buttermilk or sour cream to make a soft dough. Divide dough in half and pat out each half on a floured board into a circle about 1/2" thick. Cut into wedges and bake on a floured griddle over medium heat until lightly browned; turn to brown the other side. Serve hot, split, buttered, and spread with jam. Cold scones may be split, toasted, and buttered. Makes about 12.

Drop Scones

Combine all dry ingredients in a bowl and whisk to combine. Cut in the butter with a pastry blender; make a well and stir in the buttermilk to make a dough that can be spooned but still holds its shape. Add the raisins and stir to combine. Drop dough by large spoonfuls onto a greased cookie sheet and dust with cinnamon sugar. Bake at 425°F for about 12 minutes. Makes about 10.

Date-Nut Scones

Preheat oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, stir together flour, brown sugar, baking powder, and salt. Cut the butter into 1/2" cubes and distribute them over the flour mixture. With a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. In a small bowl, stir together the milk, egg, vanilla, and lemon peel. Add the milk mixture to the flour mixture and stir to combine. With lightly floured hands, knead in the dates and nuts. Pat the dough into a 9"-diameter circle in the center of a greased baking sheet. If desired, brush the egg mixture over the top and sides. With a serrated knife, cut into 8 wedges. Bake for about 25 minutes, until the top is lightly browned. Cool on a wire rack or serve warm. Makes 8 scones.

Tex-Mex Scones

Preheat oven to 375°F. In a large bowl, stir together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, salt, chili powder, cumin, and pepper. Cut the butter into 1/2" cubes and distribute over the flour mixture. With a pastry blender or two knives, cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. In a small bowl, combine egg, milk, and chilies. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir. With lightly floured hands, knead in the cheese. Pat the dough into an 8" circle on a greased baking sheet and brush with the egg mixture. With a serrated knife, cut into 8 wedges. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until lightly browned. Cool on a wire rack, or serve warm. Makes 8 scones.

Staying Warm with Horseradish

Horseradish has nothing to do with horses, and little to do with radishes except for their joint membership in the mustard (Cruciferae) family of plants. But as a cure for what ails you, and as a sparkplug for the palate, horseradish excels. Fresh horseradish roots, which resemble large parsnips, are found in large supermarkets in the winter, just when they are needed the most to add zest to the table and help fight colds and flu. For more on this excellent root, go to www.horseradish.org.

• Make your own cocktail sauce for shrimp, oysters, and other seafood by adding a generous spoonful of prepared horseradish and a squeeze of lemon juice to 1/2 cup ketchup or chili sauce.

• Toss hot steamed Brussels sprouts with butter, lemon juice, and a spoonful of prepared horseradish for a simple vegetable dish.

• Stir a spoonful of freshly grated horseradish and some salt and pepper into whipped cream as a sauce for smoked fish or cold roast beef; add a spoonful to coleslaw dressing to really point up the taste.

• Make a basic white sauce and add several strips of bacon, crumbled, and a spoonful of prepared horseradish; serve with boiled potatoes or poached fish.

• Add a spoonful of freshly grated horseradish to applesauce and serve as an accompaniment to pork chops or roast beef.

• Mix a spoonful of prepared horseradish with finely chopped cooked or pickled beets to make a delicious relish.

• Next summer if you are canning pickles, add a spoonful of horseradish to each jar of cucumber pickles. This is an old German way of adding pizzaz to the pickles.

Horseradish: A Cure for What Ails You

Horseradish root contains a high concentration of mustard oil and vitamin C, and was used medicinally long before anyone thought of spreading it on a roast beef sandwich. (Historical footnote: Horseradish is one of the five bitter herbs the Jews were instructed to eat during Passover at the time of the Exodus.)

To fight the flu and urinary tract infections, steep 1 teaspoon of grated root in a cup of boiling water for 5 minutes; strain and drink.

To relieve sore throat and cough: Boil grated horseradish root with a little water and some honey to make a syrup; strain (squeeze out all the juices) and take by the tablespoonful until the symptoms are relieved.

In one of Ernest Hemingway’s short stories, a character makes a sandwich filled with a thick slice of onion topped with a matching layer of horseradish — guaranteed to open up the sinuses! In fact, herbalists recommend horseradish for clearing out the congestion of hay fever or a cold: mix some prepared horseradish with a little honey and eat it on crackers. We have a friend who has a horseradish and cheddar cheese sandwich on rye at the first sign of a cold on the theory that the horseradish kills the cold germs, something that medical science ought to investigate.

Horseradish Recipes

Carrot Horseradish Soup

In a large saucepan, heat the oil and add onions, celery, and garlic. Sauté until onion is transparent; add carrots, broth, and water. Cover tightly, bring to a simmer, and cook until carrots are tender, about 10 minutes. Add horseradish. Make a paste of the butter and flour and drop by small pieces into the simmering soup. Cook, stirring, until the mixture is absorbed and the soup is slightly thickened. Taste for seasoning. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

Beets with Sour Cream and Horseradish

Wash the beets and leave an inch of the stems attached. Cook beets until tender in boiling salted water to cover. Cool beets, peel, and slice. Arrange the slices in bowl and top with the chopped onion. Blend sour cream, salt, pepper, and horseradish and spread the mixture over the beets and onion. Chill before serving. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Chicken with Horseradish Sauce

Preheat oven to 300°F. Sprinkle the chicken pieces with salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons butter in a large skillet and add the chicken pieces, skin side down. Brown well on both sides. Remove to an oven-proof platter and place in the oven for about 45 minutes, while finishing the sauce.

Pour off the fat from the skillet. Add the mushrooms, onion, shallots, thyme, and garlic and stir with a wooden spoon. Add the remaining teaspoon of butter and stir it around. Add the wine and stir to dissolve the brown particles on the bottom of the skillet. Simmer until most of the wine evaporates; then add the cream. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the horseradish to the skillet (if using prepared horseradish, first dry it thoroughly on paper towels to get rid of the vinegar), and add salt and pepper to taste. Cook to heat through. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve hot with rice or potatoes. Makes 6 or more servings.

Winter Salads

We’ve rounded up a number of recipes for salads that have special appeal in the winter. Not coincidentally, many of them use root vegetables, fall-harvested fruits, and cool-weather greens like spinach, all easily found in supermarkets or maybe even in your own root cellar.

Walnut, Pear, and Blue Cheese Salad

4 ounces baby spinach, washed and patted dry
8 ounces mixed greens, washed and patted dry
1 ripe pear, cut into matchsticks
1/2 walnut halves, lightly toasted in oven
1/4 cup crumbled blue cheese

Mustard Vinaigrette Dressing:
2 tablespoons lemon juice or cider vinegar
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard (or to taste)
dash of salt and pinch of pepper

In a salad bowl, toss the spinach and mixed greens gently. Place the pear, walnut halves, and blue cheese on the greens. Place the dressing ingredients in a small jar, cover, and shake until blended. Pour dressing over salad and toss gently to coat the ingredients. Makes 4 servings.

Curried Red Lentil Salad

Clear Curried Vinaigrette:
3/4 cup corn oil
1/2 cup wine vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
2 teaspoons salt (or to taste)
2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon dry mustard
1/2 teaspoon turmeric
1/2 teaspoon mace
1/2 teaspoon coriander
1/2 teaspoon cardamom
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Wash lentils and cook in boiling water for 5 or 6 minutes, until just tender. Rinse and drain well. Combine all dressing ingredients and whisk to blend. Pour dressing over cooked lentils and let sit overnight, if possible, or for several hours. At least 2 hours before serving, add the currants, capers, and onions to the salad to marinate. Makes 8 to 10 servings. This salad keeps well. The leftovers make a delicious filling for pita bread.

Potato Salad Niçoise with Anchovy Dressing

Anchovy Dressing:
1 egg
1 cup corn oil
1/4 cup wine vinegar
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teasopon sugar
2 tablespoons minced dill
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon pepper
1 (2-ounce) can anchovies in oil, drained and finely chopped

Place the potatoes in a saucepan with cold water to cover, and boil until just tender. Add the green beans during the last two minutes of cooking (or cook the beans briefly, until crisp-tender, in a separate pan). Drain vegetables, slice potatoes, and toss with olive oil; cool. Drain the tuna and flake it; combine it with the potato slices, green beans, red pepper, olives, and scallions.

To make the dressing, place the egg in blender and blend until it is light colored. Gradually add the corn oil until it is emulsified. Add the remaining ingredients except the anchovies and blend well. Stir in the anchovies.

Toss the potato salad with the dressing (refrigerate any left-over dressing) and place in a salad bowl lined with romaine lettuce leaves. Garnish with the hard-boiled eggs. Makes 5 or 6 servings.

Bok Choy Salad

Trim the stem end and thinly slice the bok choy. Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a wok or large skillet. Add the bok choy and toss to coat evenly; stir over high heat until limp. Add the mushrooms and onion and pour on the water. Continue stirring over high heat until the water is evaporated. Remove from the heat.

Whisk together the remaining 3 tablespoons oil, vinegar, soy sauce, and sesame seed oil. Pour over the bok choy and toss to coat. Add the drained noodles, cashews, and cilantro. Toss to combine. Chill before serving. Makes 6 servings.

Beet and Feta Cheese Salad

Toss beets and red onion in a salad bowl. In a small jar, combine oil, vinegar, and herbs; shake vigorously until well mixed. Pour dressing over beets and onions. Toss gently. Sprinkle with feta cheese. Makes 4 servings.

Barley and Hazelnut Salad

In a saucepan, combine barley, wheat berries, and water. Bring to a boil; then simmer, covered, until all the water is absorbed. (It pays to watch carefully at this point, so that the grains don’t burn to the bottom.) Allow to cool. Place cooked grains in a medium bowl with the lemon juice, olive oil, salt, and black pepper to taste. Add the remaining ingredients; stir and adjust seasonings. Refrigerate for an hour or two before serving. Serves 4.

Warm Avocado and Spinach Salad

Cut avocado in half lengthwise; peel and remove the pit. Dice and sprinkle with the lime juice; set aside.

Cook the bacon slices in a skillet until crisp; pour off all but 2 tablespoons of fat and place the bacon on paper towels to drain. Sauté the onion for 3 minutes in the 2 tablespoons of bacon fat. Add the spinach and cook, covered, until the spinach wilts (about 2 minutes). Stir the diced avocado into the spinach mixture; crumble the bacon and add it. Sprinkle with hot pepper sauce, salt, and pepper, and serve warm. Makes 4 servings.

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