The Goodness of Olive Oil

The Goodness
of
Olive Oil

Something about small books is so appealing, as if they are the essence, the heart of a single subject. When done well, as these two books are, they assume a treasured spot on the bookshelf.

The Goodness of Olive Oil came out in the early 1990s, when small, single-subject food books became fashionable. Others in the "Goodness" series, by the same author, focus on garlic, legumes, and root vegetables. This book is graced with lovely watercolors by Ian Sidaway. The format is simple: A 25-page essay on the history, cultivation, and use of olives and olive oil is followed by about 40 pages of recipes that use olives or olive oil as a main ingredient.

Did you know that 90 percent of the world olive crop is pressed for oil? And can you guess which country consumes the most olive oil per capita? (It’s Greece, particularly Crete.) Do you know that the color of olive oil is determined mostly by the ripeness of the fruit (green olives produce a green, peppery oil; ripe olives, a golden oil), as well as by locale, quirky growing conditions, and other somewhat mysterious factors. An ancient and noble tree, the olive is both master and servant of those who cultivate it. No wonder Thomas Jefferson wrote, "The olive tree is surely the richest gift of Heaven." (For sample recipes, see below.)

The second book, Memories of a Lost Egypt, is food writer’s Colette Rossant’s autobiographical account of her childhood in Egypt, where she was abandoned by her mother to be raised by her Egyptian grandparents in pre-World War II Cairo. The book is interleaved with recipes that the family’s cook, Ahmet, prepared, usually with young Colette at his side in the kitchen. Here is an example of the prose:

"Grandmaman was a great believer in the restorative power of leeks. She would recommend leeks to my teenage cousin Renée, who was complaining of being too fat. ‘Eat only leeks for one day,’ she would say in her imperative tone of voice, ‘and you will be slim.’ She told Zaki, my eighteen-year-old cousin, to eat leeks to heal his acne, and would insist that I eat them at least twice a week so that I might sing in tune like my other cousins. We never saw any results, but we continued to listen to her and eat leeks."

Although the author’s distant relationship with her mother would be a source of pain in her life for decades, the richness of her childhood in Egypt helped to sustain her. As a journalist and food writer, she has authored eight cookbooks and was nominated for a James Beard Award for food writing. Sample recipes follow.

Recipes:

Sample Recipe from The Goodness of Olive Oil

Spaghetti alla Puttanesca

Heat water in a large pan, add a drop of olive oil and 1 teaspoon salt, and bring to a vigorous boil. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. When just smoking, add the chili, garlic, and capers. Stir and cook for about 30 seconds, until the garlic starts to color. Add the chopped tomatoes, salt, and pepper, and mix well. Simmer for about 5 minutes if using fresh tomatoes (20 minutes if canned). Turn off the sauce and cook the spaghetti in the boiling water. When the pasta is done, add the olives to the sauce and reheat it. Toss it thoroughly with the pasta. Tear up the basil and scatter it over the spaghetti. Serve with bread.

Sample Recipe from Memories of a Lost Egypt

Sambusaks

For the filling, place 2/3 pound crumbled feta, 2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese, 2 eggs, 4 teaspoons baking powder, and pepper to taste in the bowl of a food processor. Pulse until light and creamy.

Divide the dough into 20 balls. Flatten each ball into a 4" round on a floured surface. Place a heaping tablespoon of filling in the center of each round, brush the edges with water, fold over, and press the edges with a fork to seal. As you finish, place on a greased baking sheet. Brush the sambusaks with beaten egg, and bake in a preheated 375°F oven until golden brown, about 35 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature. Makes 20 pastries.