Favorite Cookbooks

The L.L. Bean Book of "New" New England Cookery

by Judith and Evan Jones, Random House, 1987

The L.L. Bean
Book of New New England...

Some things haven’t changed much since Fannie Farmer’s day. Yankee diners still enjoy their Clams Casino the way they do them at Locke-Ober in Boston, or Blackberry Slump the way their grandmother made it. Those recipes are here, along with fresh ideas for cooking seafood, vegetables, and even so hoary a dish as Indian Pudding. This is a cookbook I turn to when I get into the cooking doldrums and can’t think of how to perk up an old favorite.

Here are a few favorite recipes to give you a flavor of the old and the new in the cookbook.

Recipes:

Marmalade Indian Pudding

In a saucepan, mix together the cornmeal, molasses, marmalade, and 2 cups of the milk. Cook, stirring constantly, over low heat until the mixture bubbles and thickens slightly. Beat the remaining milk with the egg, salt, and spices. Stir into the cornmeal mixture. Pour into 8 custard dishes and place in a preheated 350°F oven to bake for 1 hour. Serve warm with freshly whipped cream. Makes 8 servings.

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Stuffed Mushrooms

Remove stems from the mushroom caps. Rub the outside of the caps with 2 tablespoons oil. Chop the stems, then mix with the scallions, bread crumbs, watercress, and rosemary. Add salt and pepper to taste. Fill the caps with this mixture and drizzle with the remaining olive oil. Sprinkle with cheese. Set in a shallow baking dish and bake at 400°F for 20 minutes, until browned on top and tender. Makes 4 servings.

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Parsnip, Potato, and Salt Pork Chowder

Fry the salt pork in a large saucepan. Add the onions and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes. Add the potatoes and parsnips and cover with the chicken broth. Bring to a boil and simmer, covered, for about 25 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Season with pepper, savory, and thyme, and add milk. Bring to a boil, add the scallions, and simmer gently for 4 or 5 minutes. Makes 4 servings.

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Orr's Island Skillet Fish Dinner

Put a large skillet over low heat and pour in the rice, add the celery, carrots, chopped onion, and butter. Stir as the butter melts, then add the tomatoes, tarragon, a few gratings of nutmeg, a little salt, plenty of pepper, and the water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 12 minutes without stirring. Lift the cover and place the fish fillets on top, add a little more water if dry, then cover again and simmer for about 10 minutes, until the fish is cooked through and the liquid is absorbed by the rice. Sprinkle with parsley and chives. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

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Crabmeat and Corn Cakes

Except for the oil, mix all ingredients together to make a loose batter. Heat a large skillet with 1/8" oil. Flour your hands and quickly form 8 cakes, dropping each into the skillet as it is formed. Fry over medium heat until brown, about 2 minutes, then turn and fry on the other side. Serve piping hot with salsa, if desired. Makes 4 servings of 2 cakes each.

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New England-Style Moroccan Lamb

Heat the oil in a skillet and sauté the lamb in batches until brown on all sides. Place the lamb pieces on a plate and sauté the onion, mushrooms, and garlic for 2 minutes. Return the lam to the skillet and add the remaining ingredients except for the broth. Bring to a simmer, cover, and cook gently, adding chicken broth as needed. The lamb will be tender in 30 to 40 minutes. Serve with rice or orzo. Makes 6 servings.

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Baked Grated Butternut Squash with Cinnamon and Cream

Peel and grate the squash. Spread half of it over the bottom of a shallow 1-quart baking dish, sprinkle lightly with salt, and dust with half the cinnamon. Repeat. Pour the heavy cream over all. Bake, covered loosely with foil, for 40 minutes at 350°F, then uncover and bake another 10 t 15 minutes, until very tender. Makes 6 servings.

Squiggled Eggs

Beat the eggs in a large bowl, sprinkling in a little salt, some pepper, dash of cayenne and nutmeg, and some crumbled sage leaves. Heat butter in a large saucepan until it foams. Stir in the eggs all at once and add the cheese. As the mixture cooks over gentle heat, continue stirring and pour in the heavy cream. Do not let the mixture solidify. When it is cooked but still moist, spoon it over the fresh toast and serve. Makes 6 servings.

Maple Biscuits

Pour the melted butter and maple syrup into a 9" cake pan, swirling it around to mix well. Toss the flour, baking powder, and salt together and rub in the butter with your fingertips until the texture is like soft bread crumbs. Stir in the milk. Turn the dough out and knead gently about 6 turns, just so it holds together. Pat or roll to 1/2" thickness, then cut into 9 rounds. Place the rounds in the pan on top of the butter mixture and bake at 375°F for 12 to 15 minutes, until biscuits are lightly browned and the syrup is bubbling. Serve hot. Makes 3 to 4 servings.

Schrafft’s Oatmeal Cookies

Cream the butter and sugar; add the eggs and vanilla and beat until light. Stir in the oats. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, and allspice, and add to the butter mixture along with the milk. Beat until well blended. Stir in the raisins and nuts. Drop by spoonfuls onto greased baking sheets about 1-1/2 inches apart. Bake at 350°f for 12 minutes. Remove and cool on racks. Makes about 40 cookies.