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Another Bite™
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Digital Hearth™
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search for everything under your roof™ |
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Favorite Cookbooks
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Cold-Weather Cooking
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Sarah Leah Chase
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On a cold Saturday night about a year ago, friends of ours invited us over for dinner. Their kitchen windows were steamed up and a wonderful smell — roasting meat, fruit, garlic, and who knows what else — filled the room. "Oh, it’s just pot roast," the cook, Greg, said modestly. We think he could tell from the way we ate (like ravenous famine victims trying to be polite) that we liked the pot roast. In fact, a few days later a copy of Cold-Weather Cooking by Sarah Leah Chase (Workman Publishing, 1990) appeared on our kitchen table, courtesy of Greg, with the recipe for "Winter Pot Roast" bookmarked.
"Just" pot roast indeed! This lucky piece of meat was basted and sauced and stewed with an army of sweet and savory ingredients.
Cooking your way through Cold-Weather Cooking can’t make winter go away, but it will definitely make it more fun. Although many of the recipes are too complicated for any but the most special occasion, and the author’s writing can go over the top (one chapter is called "The Brumal Fire of the Viands"), the recipes will inspire you. A few of the simpler ones are given here.
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Recipes:
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Winter Pot Roast
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| This dish can be prepared ahead and allowed to mellow overnight in the refrigerator. |
1/4 cup olive oil
1 beef rump roast, 4 to 4-1/2 pounds
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
2 large onions, minced
4 large cloves garlic, minced
2 teaspoons anchovy paste
1/4 cup (packed) light brown sugar
2-1/2 cups beef broth
1 cup fruity red wine, such as Zinfandel or Beaujolais
1/2 cup imported black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped
1/2 cup pimiento-stuffed green olives, halved
2 tablespoons capers, drained
1/2 cup dried apricots
1/2 cup Calimyrna figs, cut lengthwise in half
grated zest of 1 lemon
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 tablespoon dried oregano
Heat the olive oil in a large pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Season the rump roast by rubbing it all over with salt and pepper. Brown the roast on all sides in the hot oil, 15 minutes. Remove the roast from the pot and set aside.
Add the onions to the pot and saute until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and cook another 5 minutes. Blend in the anchovy paste and brown sugar until smooth. Pour in the beef broth and red wine, then mix in the olives, capers, dried fruits, and lemon zest and juice. Season with the oregano and additional salt and pepper if necessary.
Return the seared roast to the pot. Bring the mixture just to a simmer over medium heat. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, turning the meat occasionally, until it is very tender, about 3 hours. Let the pot roast cool to room temperature, then refrigerate overnight.
Before serving the following day, preheat the oven to 350°F. Remove the pot roast from the pot and slice thin. Overlap the slices in a large baking dish. Skim the fat from the sauce and spoon the sauce generously over the meat slices. Cover the baking dish with aluminum foil and bake until the meat is heated through, about 30 minutes. Serve with buttered noodles, mashed potatoes, or rice.
Makes 6 to 8 servings.
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Parsnip and Parmesan Sticks
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4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1-1/2 pounds parsnips, peeled and cut into slender 3" by 1/2" sticks
1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons minced fresh parsley
In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. Add the parsnip sticks and saute until lightly browned and tender, 10 to 12 minutes. Sprinkle with the Parmesan and toss to coat, then season with salt, pepper, and parsley. Serve at once. Makes 4 to 6 servings.
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Italian Rosemary Potatoes
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8 large russet potatoes, scrubbed
1/2 cup fruity olive oil
4 large cloves garlic, peeled and cut into thin slivers
Kosher (coarse) salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary or 1 tablespoon dried
Cut each potato lengthwise into 8 wedges or spears. Place in a mixing bowl and toss with the olive oil, garlic, salt, and pepper. Let marinate at room temperature 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spread the potatoes in a roasting pan and bake 45 minutes, tossing them occasionally with a spoon. Sprinkle with the rosemary and continue roasting until the potatoes are crusty golden brown on the outside and tender inside, another 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool for a few minutes before serving. Makes 8 servings.
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Corn Bread with Carrots and Pecans
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| A festive accompaniment to Mexican-style egg dishes and soup-based lunches and suppers. |
1 cup flour
1 cup yellow cornmeal
1/4 cup sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup buttermilk
2 large eggs
4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled
1-1/2 cups finely shredded carrots
1 cup finely chopped pecans
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Butter a 10-inch pie plate. In a large mixing bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, and salt. Make a well in the center and add the buttermilk, eggs, and melted butter. Stir together quickly with a wooden spoon just until blended. Fold in the shredded carrots and pecans. Do not overmix.
Spread the batter in the pie plate. Bake until light golden brown, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature, cut into wedges. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
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Toby Greenberg’s Crustless Cranberry Pie
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12 ounces fresh cranberries
1/2 cup (packed) light brown sugar
1 tablespoon grated orange zest
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3/4 cup coarsely chopped walnuts
2 large eggs
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 cup sour cream
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
Preheat the oven to 325°F. Butter a 10-inch pie plate. Place the cranberries in the pie plate and toss them with the brown sugar, orange zest, cinnamon, and walnuts so all is evenly mixed. Spread the mixture out in the plate.
Whisk the eggs together in a mixing bowl. Beat in the butter, sugar, vanilla, and sour cream until blended. Gradually stir in the flour and mix until smooth. Pour evenly over the cranberries in the pie plate. Bake the pie until the fruit is bubbling and the top is browned, 55 to 60 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature with a scoop of vanilla ice cream is desired. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
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Parsley, Buttermilk, and Parmesan Salad Dressing
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5 cloves garlic
1 cup buttermilk
1 packed cup fresh parsley sprigs
1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese
Place all ingredients except Parmesan in blender. Cover and run for 1 minute, until smooth. Add Parmesan and run for 30 seconds more. Makes 1-1/3 cups.
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Poppy Seed Cake
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1 cup poppy seeds
2 cups milk
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 cup honey
1/2 cup butter, melted
1-1/2 cups whole wheat pastry flour
1-1/2 cups unbleached white flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder
Cream Cheese Icing (below)
Preheat oven to 350°F. In a saucepan, heat the poppy seeds and milk, Bring to a boil, then remove from heat. Let stand for 20 minutes. Beat together the eggs, vanilla, honey, butter, and remaining 2/3 cup milk. In a separate bowl, mix together the flours, salt, and baking powder. Combine the cooled poppy seed mixture with the other liquids. Add to dry ingredients. Stir just until moist. Pour into a buttered 10-inch springform pan. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes.
Allow to cool in pan, then run a knife around the edges and remove the sides. After cake cools, cut it in half horizontally to make 2 layers. Spread Cream Cheese Icing between layers and on top of cake. Makes 10 servings.
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Cream Cheese Icing
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1-1/2 cups cream cheese, softened
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
6 tablespoons maple syrup or 4 tablespoons honey
Combine all ingredients in a bowl. Mix until smooth with an electric mixer. Makes about 1-3/4 cups icing. |
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