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The stuff that gives a chocolate malted milkshake or a bowl of Malt-O-Meal its distinctive taste is basically the same substance that is an essential component in the brewing of beer and malt whiskey. It all starts with ripened grains of barley, a member of the grass family. Perhaps the oldest cultivated grain, barley thrives in cool climates and at high altitudes and is high in protein and carbohydrates. Until about the 16th century, barley was the main bread grain for most of Europe. (It has been used for beer making since the ancient Egyptians, the first brewmeisters, discovered the fermentation process.)
To make malt, barley grains are sprouted over a period of several days. The brewing industry calls this "steeping." By the time the sprouts are nearly as long as the kernel, they have made an enzyme called diastase, which converts starches in the endosperm to sugars.
At this point, the sprouts are roasted, dried, and ground into a powder called malt. The color and flavor of the malt and the resulting beer depends on the length and temperature of the roasting process: the longest, hottest roast gives a characteristic chocolate color and flavor to dark beer and stout. Light-colored malt is used in lager and other pale beer.
The malt is next mixed with hot water (called "mashing") to make a sweet liquid called "wort," which brewers ferment to make beer. (Bitter hops are usually added to balance the sweetness of the wort.) The liquid may be spray-dried to form a powder that we mistakenly call malt, even though it is actually dried wort. Add chocolate and ice cream and you have a chocolate-malted milkshake, more correctly known as a chocolate-worted milkshake. But old habits die hard.
Bakers often add a small amount of diastatic malt to bread dough, where it acts as a catalyst in helping the yeast convert sugars in the flour into alcohol and carbon dioxide, which is what makes bread rise. This diastatic malt comes from barley that has been sprouted and then dried at a low temperature so that the natural enzymes are not destroyed by heat. Diastatic malt is available from www.KingArthurFlour.com and from other baking supply sources.
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