Across the Kitchen Table:

The Well-Dressed Salad

Curry: Sweet, Spicy, and Hot

Baking with Graham Crackers

But how often do we all toss or compose a beautiful salad and then reach for the bottled dressing that’s been hanging around the refrigerator all winter? Here’s a true confession: I just went over to my refrigerator and counted eight different bottles of salad dressing (not to mention six or seven marinades and enough odd sauces and condiments to feed the United Nations). So here’s my spring resolution, in two parts: I resolve to a) make my own salad dressings, starting now, and b) clean out the refrigerator.

Partly to jump-start my own efforts, and maybe to inspire yours, I did a little research into salad dressings and found a few guidelines and some tasty recipes.

Three Types of Dressing
Nearly any salad dressing is one of three types — the oil and vinegar mixture known as vinaigrette; a mayonnaise-based dressing; or a cream-based dressing. All three types have hundreds of variations that change the character of the basic dressing so that it can successfully bind and harmonize the components of a salad.

Building a Salad Dressing
Dressings have an oily element (olive oil, vegetable oil, peanut oil) that contributes richness and helps the dressing stick to the salad ingredients; an acidic element (vinegar, lemon juice, lime juice, and so on) to pique the taste and cut the oil; sometimes a sweet element (honey or a dash of sugar) to balance the acid; and nearly always a savory element (fresh herbs, garlic, salt, pepper, hot spices, and so on) to give the mixture a kick and an identity. (Fat-free dressings usually include pectin or other thickener to give body to the dressing and imitate the mouth-feel of oil.) You can vary the proportions of oil and acid according to your taste, but most vinaigrettes, for example, use three to four parts oil to one part vinegar or lemon juice. In mayonnaise, the percentage of acid is much lower; with cream-based dressings, the "cream" is often sour cream or plain yogurt, and therefore tart from the start.

Advantages of Homemade Salad Dressing
Fresh taste is the main advantage. If you want to avoid food preservatives and additives, homemade is the way to go. It is also less expensive per serving to make your own. Keep any leftover dressing and refrigerate it for the next salad: it’s just as convenient as store-bought dressing. Finally, you can customize your own salad dressings to your tastes and to suit the salad you’ve just created.

Salad Dressing Recipes

Foolproof Blender Mayonnaise

2 whole eggs, at room temperature
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 to 1-1/4 cups safflower, olive, or canola oil (or a blend)

Combine eggs, salt, mustard, and lemon juice in a blender. Cover and process at low speed until combined, about 10 seconds. Remove the feeder cap, increase the speed, and slowly drizzle in the oil until mixture is smooth and has reached the desired consistency. If mayonnaise becomes too thick, it can be thinned with hot water added a few drops at a time.

Variations (stir into finished mayonnaise):

*Chopped fresh herbs (parsley, tarragon, watercress, or whatever you like)

*Dijon mustard (about 2 tablespoons to a cup of mayo, or to taste)

*Horseradish (about 3 tablespoons to a cup of mayo, or to taste)

*Capers, minced pickles, anchovy paste

*Chili sauce, minced onion, and horseradish (to make Russian dressing)

*Pickle relish, minced onion, and a little Dijon mustard (for tartar sauce)

Classic Vinaigrette

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice or wine vinegar
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

Place all ingredients in a screw-top jar and shake vigorously. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate leftover dressing. Bring to room temperature and shake before using.

Variations:

*Add 1 clove crushed or minced garlic.

*Substitute a couple of tablespoons of walnut or hazelnut oil for olive oil.

*Use a flavored vinegar or mustard, such as tarragon, in place of the ingredients in the recipe.

*Add a teaspoonful of chili paste and use the dressing on cooked chick peas, bean salad, shrimp, or chicken.

*Add chopped fresh herbs.

*Infuse the dressing with sprigs of lavender, anise hyssop, nasturtium buds, or other interesting flavors; remove additions before using the dressing.

*Add a spoonful of pesto and serve with lightly steamed snow peas, summer squash, and pasta.

Creamy Roquefort or Blue Cheese Dressing

Crumble cheese into a bowl and stir in remaining ingredients with a fork, mashing cheese lightly. The mixture should be somewhat lumpy. Refrigerate for an hour or two, then bring to room temperature before using. Makes about 1-1/2 cups, enough for 4 to 6 servings of salad

Cucumber and Yogurt Dressing

Combine yogurt and mayonnaise in a bowl. Peel, seed, and shred cucumbers to make about 1/2 cup. Squeeze the shredded cucumber in a double thickness of paper towel to extract moisture. Fold cucumber into yogurt mixture; taste and add salt if desired. Serve chilled.

Soy and Ginger Dressing

Serve over stir-fried vegetables and chicken; toss with shredded bok choy or other oriental greens; or combine with cooked shrimp and lightly steamed snow peas.

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and whisk to combine, or shake in a screw-top jar. Makes about 1/2 cup.

Sweet Onion, Apple, and Chicken Salad with Creamy Apple Dressing

Combine in a large bowl and toss. Top with Creamy Apple Dressing and toss to coat. Serve immediately or refrigerate, covered, until ready to serve. Makes 8 cups (4 or 5 servings).

Creamy Apple Dressing:
1/2 cup plain yogurt
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1/4 cup frozen apple-juice concentrate, thawed
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

Combine all ingredients in a small bowl and whisk until smooth.

Grilled Vidalia Onion with Orange-Honey Vinaigrette

In a small bowl, combine orange juice, olive oil, vinegar, honey, salt, and pepper and whisk to combine. On an outdoor grill or under the broiler, place onion slices on a broiler pan and grill until golden brown, about 3 minutes; turn and grill the other sides until onions are tender, about 3 minutes longer. Place onions on a serving platter atop a bed of spinach and drizzle with the dressing. Garnish with fresh cherry tomatoes. Serves 4.

Pickle, Bean, and New Potato Salad with Mustard-Dill Vinaigrette

In a large pot, cover potatoes with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, cover, and cook 4 minutes. Add beans and cook 4 more minutes, until beans are crisp-tender and potatoes are soft. In a large bowl, whisk together oil, mustard, pickle brine, dill, and pepper. Drain potatoes and beans and add to the bowl. Add the dill pickles and olives and toss lightly until vegetables are coated. Serve warm or at room temperature. Serves 6.

Asparagus and Tomato Salad

Better Homes and Gardens : Salads...

In a small bowl, combine mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice, and hot sauce. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. On a beautiful serving plate, place a layer of crisp lettuce leaves, then arrange the asparagus, egg slices, tomatoes, and watercress in a pleasing design. Pour a small amount of the dressing lightly over the salad and garnish with chive flowers. Serve remaining dressing on the side. Serves 4

Vermont Salad Dressing

Place all ingredients in a blender and blend on high speed for 1 minute. Use immediately, or refrigerate in a bottle and shake before using. Makes about 1-1/2 cups dressing.

Curry: Sweet, Spicy, and Hot

A Taste of India

The traditional Indian cook buys whole spices and grinds and blends them herself, but grocers in India and Pakistan also carry convenient packages of ground spices and popular blends. Meats, vegetables, grains, legumes, seafoods, and fruit are all "curried," but an Indian cook would never dream of using one all-purpose jar of seasonings. By mixing her own spices to suit the dishes she is making, the cook is able to come up with endless subtle variations that suit the food and her family and guests. The flavor of spices, herbs, and seeds is intensified by grinding them in a mortar and pestle, dry-roasting them in a cast-iron pan until they pop, frying them with onions in hot oil. Many dishes are slow-cooked over low heat so that flavors are absorbed and melded.

Not all curried dishes are hot. A sweet curry blend might combine turmeric (for that bold yellow color), coriander, cumin, fenugreek, pepper, and an array of sweet spices like cinnamon, cloves, ginger, nutmeg, and cardamom, with an optional dash or two of cayenne. Tandoori seasoning, used most popularly on chicken baked in tandoor ovens, is a mix of ginger, garlic, cumin, coriander, cardamom, saffron, and a small amount of chili powder or paprika (the traditional cherry red color of the chicken comes from food coloring). Sharper-flavored blends, often called Madras-style curry, include more hot red pepper, chilis, and ginger. Authentic Vindaloo curries from Goa are fiery hot, although the Vindaloo seasoning sold in the U.S. is usually toned down.

Even the hottest Indian food is balanced by cool, tart dishes like raita (plain yogurt with cucumbers or mint) and cucumber salads, by stacks of flatbread or bowls of rice, and by the sweet-sour pickles and chutneys that complement the food so well. A good Indian cookbook like Madhur Jaffrey’s A Taste of India (Pavilion Books, London, 1985) will launch you into the world of Indian cookery. It’s a vibrant, aromatic, and healthful way to eat, and once you get started, you’ll be hooked.

Penzey’s Spices (www.penzeys.com) is a reliable supplier of excellent premixed curry powders and its individual components, for those who want to make their own. Another time-saving condiment to have on hand is one of Patak’s line of curry pastes, which range from mild to hot and include Tandoori, Vindaloo, and other types of curry. In every case, the taste of the finished dish is better if the curry spices are sautéed with onions (the beginning of most curry dishes) to develop the flavors.

Sambar Powder

In a hot, dry cast-iron skillet, roast the first four ingredients together and set aside. Then roast each of the remaining ingredients separately. Some take very little roasting before the fragrance emerges. Now grind all the roasted spices together to a fine powder and store in a screw-topped jar.

Madhur Jaffrey’s Garam Masala

Grind all ingredients together as finely as possible, using a clean coffee grinder or spice mill. Store in an airtight container.

Tandoori-Style Chicken

With a sharp knife, slash the meaty part of the chicken, perhaps four cuts per piece. Place the chicken in large bowl or container. Combine yogurt, ginger root, garlic, chili powder, cumin, coriander, salt, and food coloring (optional). Pour over the chicken, turning the meat to coat all sides. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3 hours, as long as overnight. Turn the chicken now and then while it is marinating.

To grill: place the chicken on the grill, not too close to the heat. Grill for 30 to 35 minutes, turning twice and basting with the oil as needed.

To bake: place the chicken on a rack across a roasting pan and cook at 400°F for about 45 minutes, or until tender.

Sprinkle with salt to taste and serve warm. Garnish with slices of lemon and onion, if desired.

Curried Cauliflower, Potatoes, and Peas

Saute onions and potatoes in hot oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. When the onions are beginning to turn golden and the potatoes are nearly tender, stir in the curry paste and the salt. Add 1/4 cup water if the potatoes are starting to stick. Add the cauliflower and stir well to distribute the curry paste. Add the yogurt, stir, and cover the pan. Cook for about 20 minutes on low heat, until the cauliflower is tender. Add the peas and cook for another 5 minutes. Serve with basmati rice. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Baking with Graham Crackers

"Graham believed that a vegetarian diet centered on homemade whole-wheat bread and crackers would save people from being consumed by sexual desire."

The graham crackers we buy at the store have evolved considerably, though. They mostly contain just a small amount of so-called "graham" flour and lots of sugar, refined flour, and even artificial flavor. Having never tasted Mr. Graham’s crackers, we can only guess that today’s crackers taste sweeter, crisper, and probably better.

They might not qualify as a health food, but graham crackers are still satisfying (ask any kid) and useful around the kitchen. First there’s the ubiquitous graham-cracker crust: 1-1/3 cups crumbs, or about 18 square crackers, crushed, plus 1/4 cup sugar and 1/4 cup melted butter, combined with a fork and pressed into a pie plate and baked for about 8 minutes at 375°F. All kinds of homey cream pies and tortes start here.

But you can also use graham crackers, whole and crumbs, to make other cakes, cookies, bars, and confections. Kids love to help with these, especially when it comes to crushing the crackers. Here are a few recipes. Have fun!

Homemade Graham Crackers

Heat oven to 350°F. Using a pastry blender, cut butter into flour until mixture has a mealy texture. Stir in baking powder, brown sugar, and cinnamon. Beat the honey, egg, and hot water together and add to the flour mixture. Stir with a fork until well blended, then knead lightly. Divide dough in half. Roll out each half on a floured surface to about 1/8" thick. Cut into desired shapes, or simply score the whole piece into cracker shapes; place on a ungreased baking sheet. Prick the crackers with a fork (this is called "docking," and it lets the steam escape and makes the crackers crisp). Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the crackers are lightly browned on the edges. Cool and enjoy. Makes about 3 dozen, depending on size.

Graham Cracker Muffins

Heat oven to 400°F. Grease a 12-muffin tin. Whisk together flour, baking powder, and salt in a mixing bowl. Stir in chopped nuts and graham cracker crumbs. Place shortening, sugar, eggs, and milk in a blender and mix until smooth. Pour liquid mixture over flour mixture and stir only until flour is moistened. Spoon into muffin tins and bake for about 25 minutes, until golden. Makes 12 muffins.

Delicate Graham Cracker Cake

Stir crumbs, flour, and baking powder together in a small bowl. Beat butter and sugar in a mixer bowl until light and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time, beating after each. Stir in vanilla. Alternately add flour mixture and milk, beating well after each addition. Divide batter between 2 well-greased 8" round cake pans.

Bake at 350°F for 25 minutes, or until done. Cool in pans for 15 minutes, then turn out and cool completely on wire racks. Fill and frost as desired.

Candy Bar Cookies

Melt butter in a 9"x13" cake pan. Sprinkle crumbs evenly over the butter. Then sprinkle on chocolate chips, butterscotch pieces, and coconut. Sprinkle with nuts. Drizzle the sweetened condensed milk over the top. Bake at 375°F for about 25 minutes. Cool on rack and cut into bars. Makes about 40, depending on size.

Note: If you can find a copy of Farm Journal’s Homemade Pies, Cookies, and Bread (1983, Crown Publishers), you will discover a whole section called "Cookie Confections" that is a graham-cracker lover’s dream. The book is out of print but still findable in used-book stores and libraries. Or you might locate a used copy at www.amazon.com.

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